Laser hair removal works by finding a difference in pigment between the dark bulb of the hair and the surrounding skin. This is why your skin phototype matters when you’re getting laser hair removal.

Laser technology has come a long way. At SEV, we use laser machines that work on all skin types to eliminate unwanted hair in the long-term.

In this post, we’ll cover everything you should know about your skin type when getting laser hair removal. We’ll even explain why we keep saying “skin type” and “phototype” instead of skin tone and dive into the technological advancements that have made laser hair removal more accessible across the spectrum.

 

Understanding Fitzpatrick Skin Types

When you hear a dermatologist talk about skin types, they’re mainly referring to skin tone.

In medical contexts, doctors and nurses rely on the Fitzpatrick scale to categorize skin types based on how they react to the sun. This is why Fitzpatrick skin types are also referred to as phototypes.

The Fitzpatrick skin types go from 1 to 6 (or I-VI, because derms love nothing more than a Roman notation) and are usually defined as:

  • Skin type I: Very fair to light skin that never tans but burns quickly.

  • Skin type II: Light to medium-light skin that can tan slightly but with effort. Sun exposure usually causes sunburn.

  • Skin type III: Medium skin that can burn or tan, and may develop tan after sunburn.

  • Skin type IV: Medium-dark skin that tans easily and rarely gets sunburned. Is more likely to develop hyperpigmentation.

  • Skin type V: Dark skin that tans very easily (often by several shades) and almost never gets sunburned. Has a higher chance of developing hyperpigmentation.

  • Skin type VI: Very dark skin that never burns, and tans (if there is any fluctuation in skin tone depth).

 

Why Skin Tone Matters for Laser Hair Removal

Laser hair removal works because the laser targets the melanin in the root of the hair. Melanin, the pigment that tints our skin and hair, acts as a chromophore. This means that it absorbs light and converts it to heat. Once converted, this thermal energy damages the follicle and inhibits new hair growth.

Older lasers could not distinguish between melanin in the skin and in the hair. However, modern developments, especially when it comes to the depth to which laser light can travel, have made it possible for laser hair removal to work on all skin types.

Laser Hair Removal for Fair Skin (Skin Types I-II) 

For those with fair skin and dark hair, laser hair removal is a breeze. Most laser technologies are effective on your skin type, including earlier machines that are no longer in use.

If you want to see the most notable results, studies show that alexandrite lasers generally give you the greatest percentage of hair reduction. Keep in mind that laser treatments will not work on lighter hair, since there isn’t enough pigment for absorption.

Laser Hair Removal for Medium Skin Tones (Skin Types III-IV)

Those with medium skin tones can usually undergo laser hair removal treatments without issues, much like those with fairer skin.

If your skin type is on the lighter side of medium, your provider will likely recommend treatment with the more powerful alexandrite laser. If your skin type is closer to IV, your provider might recommend a gentler treatment with a diode or Nd:YAG laser instead.

Laser Hair Removal for Dark Skin (Skin Types V-VI) 

For patients with dark skin, laser hair removal comes with a slightly elevated risk of side effects such as burns, blisters, hyperpigmentation, and hypopigmentation.

This is why, in the early days, clinics couldn’t perform laser hair removal for dark-skinned individuals at all.

In recent years, manufacturers have developed lasers with longer wavelengths that can travel beyond the melanin-holding layers of skin. These lasers, like the Nd:YAG laser, can effectively inhibit new hair growth with minimal risk of skin damage, even for patients with extremely dark skin. In some circumstances, clients with darker skin can also be treated safely with diode and alexandrite lasers.

Before Sun, After Sun
Skin Type 1 Skin Type 2 Skin Type 3 Skin Type 4 Skin Type 5 Skin Type 6
Ivory Fair or pale Fair or beige, with golden undertones Olive or light brown Dark brown Deeply pigmented dark brown to darkest brown
Always freckles, always burns/peels, never tans Usually freckles, often burns/peels, never tans Might freckle, burns on occasion, sometimes tans Doesn’t really freckle, rarely burns, often tans Rarely freckles, almost never burns, always tans Never freckles, never burns, always tans

Technological Advancements for All Skin Types

Laser hair removal technology is advancing at a rapid pace as the industry’s leading manufacturers develop features that improve safety and minimize pain. At SEV, we use machines with cooling mechanisms and skin type sensors to ensure patient comfort.

Cooling mechanisms are the biggest game changers when it comes to laser safety and pain reduction. Studies show they protect the skin, prevent discomfort, and shorten side effect duration.

Skin type sensors can help technicians select settings like energy or pulse duration, and to prevent the laser from firing over areas with discoloration. They’re a must-have for enhanced safety.

Effective Laser for Light, Medium, or Dark Skin

We at SEV hold a few strongly held beliefs: everyone deserves to feel more confident in their skin, and no-one should ever overpay for laser hair removal. We also believe that smooth skin should be within reach for all people, regardless of skin tone.

One-size-fits-all lasers don’t cut it. All SEV locations use dual-wavelength devices with both Nd:YAG and alexandrite lasers. Wielded by our specialized laser nurses and techs, they’re the best way to hit your hair-freehair free goals. To start your journey, book an appointment at your nearest SEV.

FAQs

What Skin Type Is Best for Laser Hair Removal?

With current technology, all skin types can undergo laser hair removal. That said, those with a higher contrast between their skin and hair generally tolerate treatment with more powerful laser technologies and may see better outcomes as a result. To effectively treat patients with all skin types, we use two select lasers at SEV: alexandrite and Nd:YAG.

What Laser Hair Removal Is Best for Dark Skin?

Most doctors, researchers, and providers agree that the Nd:YAG laser is the best hair removal device for dark skin tones. Thanks to its longer wavelength, it bypasses melanin in the skin to treat unwanted hair with a lower risk of side effects.

Is Laser Hair Removal Good for Dark Skin?

Yes, laser hair removal is excellent for dark skin! Those with deeper skin tones are often more prone to hyperpigmentation and ingrown hairs due to irritation from frequent shaving or waxing. Laser hair removal  can be a far more fitting solution. Make sure to select a med spa that uses technology that’s been proven safe and effective for your skin type, like the Nd:YAG laser.